Thursday, April 11, 2019

A Wine Lover’s Game Plan in Drinking Well (Biodynamic/Organic/Vegan Wines & Supplements)! #WinePW

The popularity of biodynamic, organic, vegan and natural wines is seen everywhere, from shelf space in wine stores to major wine trades. As almost a quarter of the exhibition hall at the recent VinExpo New York, where wine producers from all over the world brought forward their best wines, was dedicated to producers of biodynamic, organic and vegan wines, the trend to drink “healthier” wines is a phenomenon that probably won’t stop in the near future. Biodynamic and organic wine producers see their terroir-driven wines from their certified “green” land, not only a way to optimize their profit margins, but also a major environmental commitment that they will pass down to next generations. People’s pursuit of consuming foods and drinks in their most natural forms does propel and transform the food and beverage industry. 
VinExpo New York's "Barnyard" - A Showcase of Biodynamic, Organic and Vegan Wine Producers
In January, the French winophiles had a chance to dive deep into French biodynamic wines. Today, we have another opportunity to explore biodynamic wines from all over the world per Wine Predator, Gwen’s invite. I’ll look into why a wine lover should level up in choosing “healthier” wines – biodynamic, organic, vegan and/or natural as well as holistically do “something extra” to sustain health and prevent the side effects that come along with the love of drinking wine – a game plan in the making! 
Biodynamic French and Organic Chilean Wines at the VinExpo NY
What Do These Healthier Wines Mean, Exactly?

As seen in my January blog, "Detox with Organic French Wine and Cantonese Light Flair", Dr. Vinny from the Wine Spectator has defined, in layman’s term, what organic and biodynamic farming with a focus on wine is.

Organic: “Wines can be made from certified organically grown grapes, avoiding any synthetic pesticides or additives, or, to take it a step further, “organic” wines are made from organically grown grapes, and are also made without any added sulfites.”

Biodynamic: “… is similar to organic farming in that both take place without synthetic chemicals, but biodynamic farming incorporates ideas about a vineyard as an entire ecosystem.”

The “healthier” wine family have two new members:

Vegan: Wine is made from processes that do not allow animal-derived products that are introduced during fining (i.e., speeding up the process of removing sediments in wine by adding processing aids to bind and remove the unwanted substances). These processing aids are eventually filtered out from the wine and are not required to be noted in the wine label. Vegan farming may go beyond the wine-making process and attempts to eliminate animal products (e.g,, bone meal and fish emulsion) that may be inadvertently found in the vineyards.

Natural: Biodynamic, organic or sustainable farming practices are used in the vineyards and wineries, ensuring the entire cycle of wine producing, from soil management, growing the grapes through harvest to the wine making process, is subject to little-to-no chemical or technological manipulations. Also, the approach deployed is as hands-off as possible, distinguishing natural wines from organic and biodynamic and vegan practices. Since the goal of natural wines is to let nature craft the wines without labor-intensive techniques including sorting grapes, grape-crushing and basket-pressing, natural wines are often made in much smaller quantities with unpredictable yields. Unlike attaining organic and biodynamic certification to assure the practice, standards and compliance with the laws, there is no such certification in natural wines.

Spanish Wines that are Triple-Certified - Biodynamic, Organic and Vegan
The labels are worth a thousand words!
Lesser additives, lesser synthetic chemicals, lesser herbicides, but more natural flavors in wines is a two-thumbs up for wine lovers! For example, Fidora Tenuta Civranetta Organic Moscato Brut is a bottleful of wholesomeness and taste...
"Fidora Moscato Spumante Brut is the flagship bubbly produced at Tenuta Civranetta, the family estate. Pouring out from the 🍾dark mysterious bottle is the light straw yellow color bubbly that opens up its bouquet as you swirl. The moscato grape instantaneously releases the aromas of intense 🍊white orange tree flowers and hints of citrus and 🌿sage. On the palate, the light-touch sweet, showcases fruit and floral notes, and yet balances between minerals and acidity. It’s a bubbly that embraces freshness and elegance."



 From Organic to Biodynamic – Domaine Santa Duc

Let’s take a closer look at how a wine producer slowly but surely migrates from organic to biodynamic farming. I attended one of Wine Library’s Wine Talk Series back in February and met Angela Deluca, who is the New Jersey Regional Sales Representative from Martine’s Wines, one of the major French wine importers/wholesalers in the US - doing this trade since 1979. Through her guided tasting, I learned and experienced the exceptional taste of a few Domaine Santa Duc wines that were featured for the night. Domaine Santa Duc is one of the pioneer organic wine producers in Gigondas, southern Rhône.
Yves Gras at his estate - Photo Credit: Domaine Santa Duc
From a wine drinker’s point of view, Angela does agree that biodynamic and organic ways of growing grapes are all about making wine that is the truest possible expression of the land on which it is grown...“When a producer demonstrates the level of care and respect for the earth that it takes to farm and make wine in this way, that level of care is evident in the glass.” Domaine Santa Luc has been farming organically since 1985 with biodynamics being introduced in 2016. As the sixth-generation wine maker, Benjamin Gras expands on organic agriculture that was practiced by his father Yves Gras since1985, converting the entire estate to biodynamic methods in the Autumn of 2016, and re-thinking the range of wines to put the emphasis on local terroirs.  After tasting a few of Domaine Santa Duc’s biodynamic wines, the Vacqueyras Les Aubes 2016 really takes me to their land…
"🍷Santa Duc Vacqueyras Les Aubes 2016 is a biodynamic powerhouse 💪that has scent of rock salt, nori seaweed on the nose. As it opens up, the wet leaves 🍃and cedar box notes channel through. The initial masculine and intense palate is characterized by black fruit, tobacco, smokiness, leather, which is then softened as the wine aerates - snap of red fruit and toast presented. The long finish leaves endnote of stewed fruit. A memorable wine that showcases multiple layers of flavors throughout the enjoyment! "


It is probable to evaluate the “level of care is evident in the glass” through a relatively personal and subjective tasting experience. What is even more measurable is the effort these biodynamic, organic, vegan wine producers put in the growing and wine-making cycles to eliminate herbicides and added processing aids (e.g., sulfites) as much as they could or entirely so that they can continue to have the proud stamps like ‘dementer’, biodynamic’ on their bottles. Needless to say, the process to retain the certification and to comply with the laws is rigorous, often through disciplines and audits by the governing agents. Consumers, particularly the ones who may be sensitive to these added substances, can benefit tremendously from these wines – health-wise or peace of mind! Of course, a true taste of the terroir, in lieu of tasting wines that have been subject to a lot of manual manipulations and are masked by overwhelmingly big oak and big tastes, is so in!

Pleasure Comes With Risks?

Does drinking these healthier wines eradicate risks that are associated with drinking? The answer is no…unless your wines have no alcohol. By the end of the day, alcohol consumption inherently poses some health risks. Saying the obvious, drinking excessively and alcoholism may come with costly health consequences. However, depending on who you are, responsible drinking or enjoying wines in moderation may still bring along some health risks or side effects. To me, enjoying a glass of wine is not without a challenge, as personally, I must deal with the effects of “Asian Flush”. I also know some of my drinking friends experience headaches on a regular basis while drinking wines, not to mention the occasional hangovers after a night of heavy drinking. What steps can we proactively take to drink well?

Wine Related Side Effects

Asian Flush or “Asian Glow”: it is a syndrome that a person gets a “red face” after drinking alcoholic beverages. As the name of this syndrome indicates, certain Asian populations are receptive to this syndrome due to an inherited deficiency in one of the enzymes that is involved in the breakdown of alcohol: aldehyde dehydrogenase. Without this working enzyme, alcohol-induced toxins will build up in the body to the level that damage DNA. Sufferers of Asian Flush may also have higher risks of esophageal cancer. More than one in three people with East Asian heritage (Chinese, Japanese and Korean) have this syndrome.

Sulfites-induced Headache, Really?: Although added sulfites may not be a good thing through the lens of organic farming, sulfites, whether it is naturally produced during fermentation or is added, DO NOT cause headache. This wine myth has been totally busted by so many researches. The culprit of wine-induced headache lies with the tannins and other flavonoids in wines, which explains why drinking red wines seems to cause more headaches than white for some individuals.  Among reds, the highly tannic grapes like Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, some Bordeaux and Syrah from South America become tricky to people who are susceptive to this type of headache.

 Remedies (Pre- During and Post- Drinking & Regular Maintenance) (Disclaimer: I am not a medical professional and am not sponsored by any of the products below. I simply share my personal experience on using these supplements and their effectiveness on me! If in doubt, consult your doctor.)

What else could a wine lover do to sustain health and minimize wine related side effects? Well, I do a few things to make my wine-drinking lifestyle a bit healthier.
·       Hydrate well with the ratio of one glass of wine and one glass of water;

·       Prior to drinking, I take Pepcid AC to help deal with the physical symptoms of Asian Flush such as red face and sometimes nausea, which blocks histamines to prevent flushing brought on by alcohol consumption. However, Pepcid AC is only a cosmetic fix to reduce an embarrassing red face, by no means it can help break down the consumed alcohol.

·       So, after drinking, I turn to a supplement called DrinkWel, which is a natural multivitamin that helps replenish nutrients, support liver health and help the body process alcohol-induced toxins after drinking – in short, these pills help prevent hangovers. While not everyone will experience the claimed benefits the same way, to me, after taking this product, I do feel great the next day!

·       On a daily basis, I take Rejuvica Health's VitaLiver which is an herb-based syrup that seems to help support, cleanse and repair my liver as I feel less sluggish.

Taking so many pills for the enjoyment of a glass wine…call me crazy!

Related Links

Your Guide to Sustainable Wine Certifications 
Is Wine Vegetarian, Vegan or Neither? 
The Beginner’s Guide to Natural Wine

Let's Look At Our #WinePW Bloggers's Biodynamic Journey!

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Sunday, March 31, 2019

Sicily’s Marsala Wine – A New Product (Wine) Life Cycle that Started in the 18th Century but Continues to Thrive Today! #ItalianFWT


Marsala is a coastal town in western Sicily, the biggest island of Italy. It’s globally known for its fortified wine called Marsala, ancient ruins, and Stagnone Nature Reserve. As one of the wine bloggers to address Jill Barth’s invite, Island Wines Of Italy: How Many Do You Know (#ItalianFWT), I’ll focus on the “wine” part of what Marsala is known for, leaving the famous Sicily cruises and convenient Eurail rides up to the readers.  Marsala wine is made from Grillo, Catarratto and/or Inzolia grapes, white grapes natively grown in the inland near Marsala and Mazara del Vallo in the Sicily Island. 
Marsala (Red Dot)/Photo Credit: Vivino
Marsala wine is typically of amber-color, has the iconic iodine smell, and is generally semi-sweet (even it says dry) to sweet on the palate in the modern-day styles. Farmers  in the western Sicily made this wine as a locally consumed alcoholic drink back in the 18th century (or before) until multiple English adventurers ventured to Marsala, tasted and liked this beverage, and saw the opportunity to export this wine from Marsala to England. As attractive as the Portuguese Port and Madeira in color and taste, these few Englishmen introduced Sicilian marsala wine to mainland Europe and Far East. Cantine Pellegrino, the famed wine maker of Sicily since 1880, continues to produce top-notched and variant marsala wines to the current day. The introduction and continual production / consumption of marsala wines loosely aligns the modern new product (wine) life cycle – an ideal case study in oenology!


·       DESIGN: The history of Marsala begins with John Woodhouse, an English merchant from Liverpool who arrived in Sicily in 1773 to look for food products such as almonds, honey, oil and tuna salami. A storm forced his ship to detour and to find shelter in the port of Marsala, where he found a delightful, locally produced peasant refreshment in a tavern, and was impressed by how good the high alcohol-content wine and rich flavor were. Due to marsala wine’s similarity to the already popular Port and Madeira, Woodhouse wanted to bring this wine back to England, and smartly added wine spirit to the wine to stabilize it during the long sea voyage. The first load of Marsala wine arrived in England…intact!


·       MANUFACTURING: Benjamin Ingham is the second Englishman that marks the history of Marsala wine. He arrived in Sicily in 1806, trying to establish new outlets for his brothers' fabric factory in Leeds. He settled in Palermo, around 50 miles northeast from Marsala, with the original intent of importing wool from England and exporting natural products from the island. Seeing the potential of large-scale wine trade in Marsala, he began to build a large, modern, technically equipped oenological plant in Marsala to mass-produce and standardize the quality of marsala wine, exporting the wine beyond the English market to other foreign countries.


·       DISTRIBUTING: The history of the pioneers of marsala wine continues after Benjamin Ingham. With the growth and expansion of his businesses and enterprises, the merchant called upon two of his nephews from England, including Joseph Whitaker, who dedicated himself to the production of marsala wine by joining his uncle in the family estate, and contributing to the creation of a fleet of sailing ships, which carried marsala wine to reach North America and the Far East.


·       CUSTOMERS: Horatio Nelson, a British admiral at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, is one of the most beloved and famous national heroes of England. As he became a great lover of the wine, he created a widespread drinking trend of marsala wine in European salons, and distributed it to the crews of his fleet, becoming what we see as a modern-day “wine influencer”!


·       END-OF-LIFE? - STILL GOING STRONG: Cantine Pellegrino, the famed wine maker of Sicily since 1880, continues to produce variant marsala wines products, ranging from high-end to entry-level sweet or dry marsala wines that deserve to be drunk on its own as well as cooking.  
Sicily Wine Regions / Photo Credit: Vineyards.com
Given the brief history lesson of marsala wine above, the origin of Chicken Marsala, flour-coated thinly sliced chicken (breasts or thighs) that is pan-fried and is drizzled with syrupy marsala wine reduction, unsurprisingly tied back to the English families who resided in western Sicily back in the 19th century. Well, for me, using my bottle of Cantine Pellegrino Superiore Old Marsala (Dry) to make Chicken Marsala is an after-thought - after I used it as an Aperitif, and served it with cold antipasto dishes. The dry style of this marsala wine deviates you from the typical dessert wine routes like sweet Port, sweet Madiera, and P.X. Sherry…let’s see my Instagram tasting notes here:

"Cantine Pellegrino dry Marsala Superiore is a fortified wine made from white grape, Grillo grown in Marsala, Sicily. With deep amber color that mimics maple syrup, this dry Marsala has roasted almond and a hint of orange peel on the nose. The taste of caramel, molasses as well as warm spices wiggles through as you take slow but continuous sips. The dry style of this wine tames the iodine notes (notes you may sometimes find in Port and Madeira) that are present at the initial sips, subsequently showcasing dried figs and creaminess - the full potential of this food-friendly wine to pair savory dishes! Recommended pairings: 🦑squid ink pasta with Parmesan cheese, cold antipasto  platter."



Far from being bone dry, the dried-fig and stewed-fruit flavors of this dry Marsala pairs well with strong and rich cheeses like what we have here, the Irish Kerrygold Vintage (aged two years) Cheddar and Dutch double-creamy Gouda. 

I also picked up the assorted olives and oil-infused mushroom/artichoke/eggplant bites from Trader Joe’s and cut up some vegetable to complete the cold antipasto theme. The dry style no doubt complements the salty, oily, savory bites.


To showcase the versatility of this wine, I eventually cracked open all the food products I bought from Italy in August last year, and cooked squid-ink Rotini pasta in Nero Di Seppia Sterilizzato (squid ink paste), finishing with a drizzle of white truffle oil and some Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. I have to say the pairing of this pasta and the Marsala wine is by far my favorite pairing as the texture of the wine is rich with nutty and semi-sweet flavors that go extremely well with brininess of the squid ink and intensely aromatic and tasty white truffle oil.


OK, time to go back to Chicken Marsala! Thinking of truly tasting this dry Marsala in the chicken, in additional to adding ¾ cup of the wine, I decided only to garnish the finished dish with Italian parsley. Chicken Marsala is made by first pan-frying thinly sliced flour-coated chicken thighs or breasts, adding dry or fresh herbs of your choice, and then simmering the cooked chicken  in a reduced sauce - Marsala wine, half-and-half cream and chicken stock. I have to say I enjoyed the chicken very much as the sauce was tightly encapsulating the flavors of the wine. However, to let this wine shine, I’d still prefer drinking it. Well, it's time for me to drink up the leftover Marsala that’s in the fridge!


Italian Food, Wine and Travel (#ItalianFWT)

Please join me and the following writers as we share the process of writing our stories, rich with details about the food, wine and trips that inspired us.
Our hosts Jill and Jason at L'Occasion feature Speaking of Sicily, Italy's Island Wines In Conversation
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Thursday, March 14, 2019

Women Who Make Champagne AND Woman Who Helps Us Learn About Champagne #Winophiles #tastelikehappy



“Women of Champagne”...as I’m looking at one of our French #Winophiles fellows, Julia Coney’s blog invite, it reads like the title of a poem - easily romanticizing and glorifying what these women do! However, behind every bottle of champagne (lower case "c" refers to the wine) made or every story that’s told about champagne by these women, there are untold stories about these determined women who want to safeguard the family tradition or to blaze their own trail, with or without the inherited land in the heart of Champagne, France...
Women who make champagne

Ployez-Jacquemart is a family Champagne House created in 1930 by Marcel Ployez and his wife Yvonne Jacquemart. Laurence Ployez, a third-generation who follows her parents’ footstep, continues to produce top-notched champagne, based on the family’s understanding of the Champagne terroir and deep skills in the production process. Ployez-Jacquemart vineyards predominantly grow Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the Premier and Grands Crus villages of Ludes and Mailly Champagne, Villedommange, and Vertus, whereby strict rules are followed each year to ensure that only the very best is pulled out at each harvest. A blend of grapes, from Ployez-Jacquemart’s Grands Crus vineyards and/or a handful of carefully chosen as well as trusted wine growers, is hand-picked and sorted by variety, cru and specific vineyards. The grapes form the basis for the pressing at the estate. Laurence Ployez’ s meticulous approach to every detail is evident at every stage of the process. Her goal is to preserve the structure of each wine, allowing the authentic character and personality of the harvest to shine through and safeguarding the family tradition of making classic-style champagne. Laurence’s achievement is regularly recognized in the wine world as one of the top champagne producers. 

 Tasting the Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Quality Brut is a treat. Check out my tasting note previously posted on Instagram:
"🍾Ployez-Jacquemart non-vintage Brut is a complex and elegant  Champagne that smells 🍎ripe apple, 🥖freshly baked baguette, 🍊blood orange and 🍋grapefruit peel on the nose. As you sip through the mouthfilling bubbly mousse, a tad bitter quinine jumps at the core of the crunchy bright fruit, presenting a pleasant tingle that invites you to keep exploring. Opening up further...it showcases its full-bodied and yeasty mouthfeel, enveloped by a rich layer of spice and minerality. The long finish is extra gripping with additional mineral notes." 

 While I was taking the Champagne Master Tasting Class at Vinexpo New York on March 4, 2019, I had a fantastic opportunity to taste champagne that is produced by women producers from Andre Chemin and Paul Leredde. Both of these champagne houses belong to the Champagne de Vignerons, the only umbrella brand organized by a grower’s union. This brand is a trademark of a strong identity and values, based craftsmanship, authenticity, and the creation of exceptional wines, produced by the champagne growers at their property or as part of a cooperative.

Eva Chemin is the third-generation producer of Andre Chemin, representing the family business and crafting champagne that reflects the terroir, nuances, expertise and her own identity. I have tasted Eva's Cuvee Rose in the class, which not only has the salmon hue that is beautiful to look at, but also, on the nose, it smelled like a floral blossom with an engaging honey note. A hint of wood chip note also peeked through as I swirled the glass a little bit more. The legs were visible, evidencing the textual mouthfeel and creaminess played out by the added liquor dosage.
  • Terroir: Montagne de Reims Sacy
  • Soil: Chalky clay 
  • Blend: 74% Pinot Noir, 18% Chardonnay, 8% Coteau Champenois
  • Type: Brut Rosé
  • Harvest: 2015, with reserve wine from 2014, 2013 & 2012 Dosage: 4.6 g/l

Photo Credit: VinExpo New York - Eva Chemin

 The family of Elizabeth Leredde comes from the descendants of a line of ploughmen-winemakers.  Paul and Marie-Louise Leredde, parents of Elizabeth, started selling champagne around 1960 through a cooperative. Elizabeth debuted her own champagne in 1979. What is so cute about this Champagne house is the mother-daughter duo, a partnership that embraces traditional know-how and new ideas. Elizabeth brought her daughter to Vinexpo New York to assist in the English presentation and to showcase the family pride in front of the wine professionals. The Paul Leredde Cuvee Millesime 2012 has an intensely deep color that looks like liquid gold. As you pour out the champagne and open up the bouquet, the opulent palate, reminiscent of candied fruits, dried flowers, sweet spices, turns into a tasty party, accompanied with a persistent string of fine, lazy bubbles. The dense and round mouthfeel as well as rich aromas provide endless food pairing potential for this wine.
  • Terroir: Vallée de la Marne Crouttes sur Marne
  • Soil: Limestone clay
  • Blend: 34% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Meunier
  • Type: Brut
  • Vintage: 2012 
  • Dosage: 9 g/l 
Elizabeth Leredde (Left) and Daughter


Woman who helps us learn about champagne

Caroline Henry is a wine journalist and educator of terroir champagne, who came to Hauvillers, one of the prettiest villages in Champagne in 2011. Her book, “Terroir Champagne: Luxury of Sustainable, Organic and Biodynamic Cuvees” was published in 2016, and becomes a must-read for terroir champagne. Although I feel and sense “passion” a lot through her book and her social media postings throughout the years, what’s more, behind the passion, is Caroline’s work ethics, perseverance, and loyalty to her selected growers. Since we last saw each other in Reims in April 2013, Caroline still remembers me and is happy to share her story...
Caroline Henry - Last Harvest in Champagne
Q: How did you develop your passion toward terroir champagne?
A: I first moved to Champagne as I was curious about why there was so little talk about the different terroirs here. I thought I would stay about six months and then move on as I was in between jobs. And a bit years later I am still learning every day about the different terroirs of the region 😊. I think I developed my passion because I have had to work for it. Many people have scratched the surface before me, and left it at that since champagne is a blended wine by definition. I have really enjoyed digging deeper, asking 101 questions, which allowed me to get a more precise and specific picture. It’s like peeling an onion, layer by layer, discovering new and exciting tidbits! 
Q: Do you think your current base city, Hautvillers gives you the best opportunity to experience these types of champagne?
A: Living in the heart of the vineyard has indeed allowed me to focus more on what actually happens in the vineyard as it is all around me... I walk Betty and I see the erosion and soil damage caused by glyphosate, so it’s something very close to my heart. Living in a village has not always been easy - I had to earn my stripes if you want - but once integrated, it really gives you a different vison of what one normally hears. Furthermore, being here, means I can come out and look at something specific pretty quickly, and I hear what/who is experimenting differently, as people know me. I have developed real friendships with many of the growers in my book. It happened naturally as we have many similar interests! 

Q: Being a woman, does it give you an “edge” to work with champagne, terroir, microclimate, region and personalities?
A: Being a woman in wine (as almost in every sector) I have sometimes been dismissed as being just a blond airhead. One could be offended by the macho attitude, but I see it as a challenge. I get more determined, dig in deeper, search more knowledge, look at all the angles etc. I feel that in a way it has allowed me to learn so much in a relative short period of time. Maybe in the same way as women always have in the history of Champagne. But luckily things are changing, and today there are quite a few trendsetting female terroir champagne producers!! 
Q: What can be creatively paired with a terroir champagne of your choice, beyond the typical cheeses, brunch, and snacks?
A: Champagne really works with all types of food, from appetizers to dessert. Terroir Champagne is often more vinous and it pairs really well with fish and seafood. I like grilled tuna steak with a Rose de Saignee with no or a low dosage, vegetarian lasagna (I do not eat meat) with a powerful Blanc de Noir, or a multi-layered salad with a low dosage blend or Blanc de Blancs. There really are very few dishes which do not pair so well with terroir champagne, as the wine generally has its own identity that can stand up to many types of food.
Betty and Caroline
As I’m drinking the champagne, I probably forget about the complex process of making it. But a few things that stick are the appreciation of this adult beverage, the happiness that's brought by it, and the occasion where a champagne cork was popped! #tastelikehappy



Read more on Caroline Henry's blogs:
Terroir Champagne
Miss In Wine
Check out fellow French #winophiles' related blogs:






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